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Before you buy

Is this skink right for me?

Brilliant to watch, demanding to house, and not a lizard you hold. Here is the honest version before you commit.

Emerald tree skinks are one of the most rewarding lizards I keep. They are awake all day, they use every branch you give them, and they watch you as much as you watch them. That said, plenty of people buy one expecting a green lizard that will sit on their hand, and that is not what this species is. This page is here to talk some people out of it, because an animal in the wrong home is bad for both of you.

The short version Get one if you want a lively, intelligent animal in a tall planted vivarium, and you are happy for contact to happen on the skink's terms rather than yours. Skip it if you want a lizard you can pick up whenever you feel like it, something cheap to run, or a pet that tolerates being ignored for a week.

A good fit if

  • You want a genuinely interactive lizard. They want contact, and plenty of it. Mine come to the front when I walk up, and once they trust you they will climb onto your hand or jump onto you of their own accord. The rule is that they decide, not you.
  • You like the terrarium side of the hobby. Planting, drainage layers, lighting, humidity and a bit of automation are half the fun with this species.
  • You can give height. These are tree animals, so vertical space matters more than floor space.
  • You are fine with live insects. Feeding is crickets, roaches and worms several times a week, permanently.
  • You are patient. Trust is built over months of calm, predictable routine. Skinks that learn you are not a threat will come to the front of the glass to see you.
  • You want to keep them properly social. They are kept in pairs or small groups rather than alone, which means a bigger enclosure from the start.

Not a good fit if

  • You want to pick a lizard up on demand. Reaching in and grabbing one does not work, and it costs you the trust you have built. Contact has to be their idea. Character varies too: some become real cuddlers, others stay more reserved and prefer to interact from a branch. See handling and training for what is realistic.
  • You want a cheap pet. The enclosure, lighting, heating and humidity kit usually cost several times more than the animal. See what it costs.
  • You travel a lot or want low effort. Daily misting, daily checks and regular live food do not pause for your holidays.
  • You have limited height. A long, low tank is the wrong shape for an arboreal species.
  • You want a short commitment. Well-kept animals live for years, so treat this as a long-term arrangement.
  • You are squeamish about live insects or cannot store and feed them at home.

What they actually need

Enclosure (pair, minimum)60 × 45 × 90 cm, taller is better
Enclosure (small group)90 × 45 × 120 cm and up
Daytime temperature26 to 30 °C ambient
Basking spot32 to 35 °C
Humidity70 to 85% by day, 85 to 99% overnight
UVBRequired, UVI 2.0 to 2.5 at the basking branch
DietLive insects every 1 to 2 days, plus some crested gecko diet or fruit
SocialKept in pairs or small groups, not alone
HandlingOn their terms. They come to you, you do not grab them

Full detail lives on the terrarium and husbandry pages.

Things people find out too late

  • Males are territorial. Two mature males will not work. Any pairing or group needs watching, and you need a plan and a spare enclosure if it goes wrong.
  • Wild-caught animals arrive loaded. Imports commonly carry internal parasites and a lot of stress. Captive-bred is the kinder and easier start. See common health issues.
  • They are escape artists. Fast, and happy to use an open door. Every feeding is a door-management exercise.
  • Sexing is genuinely hard. There is no reliable way to sex babies, so "a pair" bought young may turn out to be two of the same sex. Mine did, which is part of why I am researching a DNA sexing method.
  • Humidity fights your house. Holding 70 to 85% by day and higher overnight in a heated room takes real equipment, not a hand sprayer twice a week.
If you only take one thing from this page Buy the enclosure first, get it running and stable for a couple of weeks, and only then buy the animal. Doing it the other way round is the single most common mistake I see.

Consider a different species if

No shame in this. Keepers often point beginners who want a handleable lizard towards species that tolerate contact far better, or towards animals with simpler humidity and lighting needs. If what you actually want is a lizard that will sit calmly on you, this is not the one, and you will both be happier with a better match.

If you want the look and the behaviour and you are happy to keep your hands out of the enclosure, read on.

Sources & references

  • ReptiFiles, Emerald Tree Skink Care Sheet (Mariah Healey). reptifiles.com. The published enclosure minimum and the UVI figure.
  • Lester, K. (2026). Emerald Tree Skink Care Guide, 1st edition. Community compilation of the husbandry sources for this species.
  • Temperature and humidity targets are sourced in full on the terrarium page.